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30 April 2024

Greece - Peleponnes

For €21 you can cross the bridge to Patras and enter Peloponnese. The bridge and Patras are impressive. Driving in Patras, and I'm in the middle of the shopping street, was like Tirana. I enjoyed it.

The area south of Patras shook me first. The E55 is sorrounded with a few factories and petrol stations, an occasional closed café and nothing else. The detours to the towns towards the coast were no better. The whole region was deserted in April, like after an epidemic. I saw more dogs than people.

I spent May 1st on the beach near Glyfa. The pine forest to the south really impressed me and the coast towards Kyllini is colorful in spring. I have no idea why I found so little about the pine forest and the coast on social media. Only a few vanlifers got lost here. But it´s worth a stop when you make it to Peleponnes

I had planned to see some archeological sites on Peloponnese and experience the history. My first destination was Ancient Olympia. Actually the stones disappointed me. But the mountains towards Phigaleia fully compensated for it. There is something about the mountains <up to 1100 m high> when it rains that excites me.

I hadn't heard of the Sepetou Monastery <near Alifeira> before, but the way it's flanged to the mountain has an Ostrog touch to it.

If you want to see a few stones lying around, you can take a look at Alipheira. I didn't take any pictures. After Andritsaina free standing along the 76 <no idea why Park4Night doesn't show any spaces here, because there are tons> is nearly a medical treatment. It calms you down when you see the clouds going thru the mountains .

A phenomenal view, goat bells in the far distance and the barking of dogs. Also, the 76 is not a busy road, only 7 cars passed by in 4 hours. I imagine it would be refreshing here in midsummer. In May it was cool because I stood at 1000m

The Temple of Apollo <Archaeological Site at Bassae of Phigaleia> had something more to offer. The tent that protects the pillars also hides the metal structure that keeps the whole thing standing. After 45 minutes I continued to the Neda valley, the waterfalls and the gorge

The hike to the water falls is strenuous <400m down and up again> but was a welcome change for me. At the day I was standing at  a beautiful pitch next to the Neda. This saved me a shower.

The landscape along the 76 is constantly changing and even better a few taverns were open in villages where the Dog.O.Mobile was just small enough to fit through.

Andromonástēro was my next destination. Before you get to Andromonástēro, you first have to pass through a landscape characterized by olive groves, remote mountain villages with narrow passages, hills and the Arcadian Gate, the remains of a fortress. I hadn't heard of it before, but it was definitely an archaeological highlight for me.

For me, Andromonástēro is more than just one of the many monasteries, it is a small jewel among the many. Oh yes, I also visited Nestor's palace... I won't write more about it...

I spent the evening at Glyphos bay. In the 2022 pre-season, that was the area with the most vans, but it worked. I understand that so many instagramable pictures are taken here. 

It's just nice to stand just a few meters away from the sea with the Dog.O.Mobil and to drink the Ouzo on the beach in the evening. A hike along the lagoon to Voidokilia beach and climbing the Old Navarino Castle was my kind of pleasure on the 2nd day.

I can't imagine doing that with a ton of tourists around me.

Along the coast I continued to Pylos, Methoni, Koroni and got close to Kalamata. I didn't stop once to take pictures. From Methoni the area is characterized by hills, olive plantations and tourism. Hotels, campsites, beaches, wide roads and a blue sea. The Eldorado for sun-lovers. Nothing for me.

A few days later I sat at Gytheio's by the sea in the evening. I "visited" Kalamatas and Sparta during the day <if there was anything there, I didn't find it> .

Actually I only liked the mountains along the 82. Was about to make a detour to Profitis Ilias.

But there was still snow on top and I wasn't in the mood for that. And I really couldn't get anything out of the cities.

I didn't feel like driving 2 hours to Monemvasia the next day, and thereafter drive halfway back to get to Nafplion. 300 km to see a rock with a city. I didn't feel like it and besides that it wasn't my last tour. And I asked myself if I really wanted to go to Athens. After a month of touring I was ready to avoid bigger cities. I didn't have to buy something special, didn't need tourists around, and didn't want to stand in line.

And so I decided to adjust my tour. I wouldn't go to the North Cape and so I decided not to go to Athens either. My next destinations would be the Meteora monasteries and the Pindos National Park. Hike for a few days and admire the deepest gorge in the world <Vikos Gorge>.