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05 October 2022

The French Alps

The first thing that struck me was the better developed roads on the French side of the Col de la Lombarde. Isola, better Isola 2000, the first stop, is a typical winter sports resort. While there are some summer tourists, the ski slopes, lifts, and ambiance screams ski-resort.

The descent with the Dog.O.Mobil into the Tinée valley was breathtaking. Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée was the first larger town where I tried to find a supermarket. I failed to find both a supermarket and a parking lot that was 7-8 m long. Up to this point I had no idea how many vans and motorbikes were on the road.

However, my frustration disappeared on the climb to the Cime de la Bonette.

I didn't count the number of times I stopped and took pictures. The Cime de la Bonette is located in the Parc National du Mercantour and has a core <Coeur du Parc national> in which there is not much to do except hike and drive through. Camping, etc. is strictly prohibited.

After a stop in Bousieyas I realized that my pitch ideas were outside the core. Lucky me!

The pass itself is a bottleneck. Difficult to describe, the rock breakthrough has not enough space for 2 vans and before and behind the breakthrough there is a fork in the road. 2 streets go up to the Cime and only one goes further towards Jausiers. I had chosen a place to boon-dock at 2'550 m with a brilliant panoramic view and perfect for a short walk in the mountains at 2'750 m.

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I spent the evening taking usable pictures of marmots. Less than 30 m from my parking space, 2 of them kept me busy for 2 hours

And in the morning I tried my luck again for an hour.

I loaded drinking water at a kind of cattle trough <no comparison to the Balkans, where I always found a place to load water>. The small depot in Jausiers wasn't big enough for me, so I stashed everything I needed for the next few days in Barcelonnette.

Driving along the Route des Grandes Alpes made me realize 2 things. (A) how big my Dog.O.Mobil is and therefore how difficult it is to find a parking space in a mountain town and (B) how many vans and motorbikes are on the road in the valleys.

My visit to the Fort de Tournoux was a toilet drain. Closed for construction work. I couldn't get any closer.

And so I made my way to my next pitch at the Grand Bérard. If you turn onto the pass road, there is suddenly less car traffic. I had my lunch at 1'750 m. A picnic spot at the end of the paved road.

I thought long and hard about whether I should continue. Because finally I realized that the upcoming road was for 4x4 vehicles. Talked to a couple that came down from above in a jeep. My pitch should have been at 2'500 m, but they advised me against it. The road actually became after a few hundred meters much more 4x4-like and I chose an alternative pitch that only required me to drive another 1.5 km on the gravel road. I got there too <with one more dent in the Dog.O.Mobil> and stood at 1'870 m for a few minutes, but the place was full.

I explored the road on foot to find out that this was the end of my journey to the Grand Bérard. I turned the van without having achieved anything and stood for the night in a pine forest on the Ubaye river.

I actually wanted to take a bath in the Ubaye, but I couldn't get more than my feet into the water, the river had so little water. The next day I came to Lac de Serre-Ponçon <an EDF reservoir> and was shocked. Parts of the reservoir were dry and the lake had so little water. I hope that comes across in the picture.

After a picnic on the shore I continued towards Mt Vontoux. I didn't want to drive up the mountain itself in the main season, but I already liked the area further north in 2021. Since I had never heard anything about the Gorges de la Méouge, I chose this route.

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At the bottom of the Gorges, coming from Laragne-Montéglin, I couldn't find a parking space. In August I found a lot of families and hikers, or better their cars. Although the water is chalky and cloudy, people chill out here on the shore and the children bathe. I didn't want to put more than my feet in. After a break, I drove to my last stand in eastern France, the Col de Muze

The region is called Drôme and is a little paradise. Drôme is a transitional region between the Hautes-Alpes and the Provence, located at the foot of the Mt Ventoux, but here you can experience the Mediterranean flair. Pine forests alternate with lavender fields. It is a magnificent region, with enchanting scents, magical places far from the crowds and natural rivers

I was alone at my pitch.

The hike to Mt de Chamouse took me to 1,500 m <Komoot provides more pictures and the details> in bright sunshine and offered me a great view of the Drôme region.

I wasn't back at my pitch for an hour when the rain and later a storm hit me. The bad weather didn't bother me and I was rewarded with the best sunset of my tour. Here just one picture

The colors changed every few minutes.

On Sunday I could only drive the Dog.o.Mobil at a slower pace, so many cyclists struggled over the many passes of the Drôme.

I left eastern France via Nyons, Grillion and Grignan and drove across the Ardeche valley into the Parc naturel régional des Monts d'Ardèche.

I tried twice to visit a castle or an old town. However the temperatures were simply to o high