France - Occitanie
The Ardeche valley was beautiful, but hot and crowded. I couldn't bring myself to look for a parking space in the valley itself. I prefer it cool at night 😉
From Aubenas it went up steadily and the wide valley of the Ardeche narrowed and the road became more winding. The N102 winds its way up the valley shoulder and at La Chavade I was only a stone's throw away from the source of the Ardeche.
After a short break, however, I realized that I would rather go to the Lac de Naussac. If it had only been around 22 degrees before, it was 28 degrees again at the lake. Along with the lack of shade, it wasn't exactly what I was looking for. The traffic at the lake was also impressive. Many French people spent their Sunday at the lake, too many for me.
Since I wanted to take a warm shower again, I drove to the campsite in Auroux. This tiny village is idyllically located on the Chapeauroux. That's how I imagine France, at least the provinces. Small village at the river, a bar, and a bakery.
The washing machine was also included in the price of the Camping Municipal <€13 for a night> and I washed my laundry the next day. In the late afternoon I drove to Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac on various D-country roads with almost no traffic. The Aubrac region was new to me and different from the Drome or Haut Alps regions. Although it is only around 1'000 m high, it is a treeless and slightly undulating plateau, which is criss-crossed by rivers and lakes. Cows, horses and donkeys shaped the landscape and a few cairns and menhirs.
I stayed at the small campground in Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac for €9 a night including electricity. What more do you want.
I had already wondered about the many hikers on the way there, but the next day I realized why. The Way of St. James GR 6 or GR 65 goes through the Aubrac itself and directly through Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac.
I walked one of the various circular routes from Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac to Aubrac and as usual you can find the pictures and the route on Komoot.
Since the various designations irritated me, I tried to make myself smart. It didn't really help me! I was traveling in the Occitanie region, a political region, and that includes Rhône-Garonne, Pyrenees, Mediterranean & Massif Central and Toulouse.
Then there are also the 96 departments, Paris as a metropolis and five overseas departments. 13 departments in the Occitanie region
Then there are the "old" names of regions or maybe I should call them landscapes: like the Massif Central, the Cevennes <mountains>, the Lot or Tarn <rivers> and every few kilometers a sign with information about whatever.
And then there are the 333 French arrondissements. Enough about that, as I said, this subject is not straight forward
I crossed the Lot at Saint-Côme-d'Olt. A small dreamy town with nice bars and restaurants. On my journey I crossed the Aveyron, Lozere, Tarn. As I said... a sign every few meters.
The landscape hadn't changed much, it had become flatter and more castles and forts stood on the way to Sévérac-d'Aveyron with its Château de Sévérac. The approximately 4,000 residents offer campers pitches, parking spaces and lots to see and eat & drink.
In the afternoon I drove to my next castle, the Château de Peyrelade. Château de Peyrelade towers picturesque over the Gorges du Tarn, but that's it. Looking back, I should have stayed longer at Château de Sévérac. You never stop learning.
Millau, with the A75 motorway bridge hanging over the Tarn valley, would definitely have been worth an overnight stay if I could have found a viable spot.
The parking space for vans in the city is perfect for "gravel field fetishists" with sun craze. All other usable places are sealed off against vans with height restrictions. What a Pity!
So there was only a cafe and a little walk
In the next few days I saw various Templar cities, castles, courtyards etc. La Couvertoirade was my first destination. Exactly the opposite of Millau. For 4 € you can stay overnight in the parking lot, visit this fantastic old town and have dinner or lunch in case you have the necessary petty cash
On my way to the Cirque de Navacelle i passed by Le Caylar-en-Larzac, not quite as stunning with its Château de Saint-Michel.
I stayed at a parking space in Vissec <alone> and from there I cycled or pushed the Cirque de Navacelles <check out Komoot>. Not only did I need to ride the bike steeply down into the valley of the Vis, I also had to climb just as steeply up on the other side🤪.
As I liked the Cevennes so much, I drove overland to Camarès and on to Castres. You don't cover many kilometers with the WoMo there per hour, but you don't have much oncoming traffic either. And in the few places, Camarès for example, you can take a nice break.
I spent the last night in Sorèze before heading to the Pyrenees
The last few days I've really regretted my 4 attempts to learn French. All of them came to an end so quickly. In addition to a couple from the UK who were cycling, I was surrounded by French people who spoke almost no English and certainly not German. Praise be to the Google tools to communicate, to the bare minimum